
Scott CR1 Review
The Scott CR1 Elite is a performance-oriented road bike with the ability to put paid to problematic vibrations and road rumble that might otherwise compromise your ability to actually enjoy all day cruising. While comfort is the calling card of this bike and the range in which it sits, it manages to achieve this without also reducing the impact of the other areas in which it excels; namely speed and handling.
The Scott CR1 Elite features a specifically tailored carbon frame that has an integrated carbon bottom bracket to give it that extra lateral rigidity that helps the rider enjoy top notch power transfer. This is an understandably low weight setup, but the Road Comfort geometry means that issues such as the rider’s seating position and the vertical compliance are all considered from the point of view of making the bike pleasant to use over long distances.
The tubing has been carefully profiled so that the high frequency vibrations from the tarmac are absorbed just as easily as the sudden bumps that can be inevitable if you are going to be transitioning across inconsistent surfaces. Meanwhile, the SDS system means that the rear triangle can stay stiff while still cutting down on road buzz. In short, there is little about the Scott CR1 Elite that does not go towards making it ride as smoothly as possible.
The fork is also fashioned from carbon and manages to make the bike handle competently, with little of the vagueness of feeling that you might normally associate with a comfort-centric model. The drive train is pulled from the SRAM Rival 09 black range, which gives a good level of consistency to the equipment used on the bike. Shifting between gears occurs quickly and efficiently, while braking feels fluid.
You get Mavic Ksyrium Elite 11 black spokes, rims and hubs, with Continental Ultra Race tyres to top off the wheelset. This definitely compliments the sportier elements of the bike and the long distance pedigree of this model means that whether covering flat sections, climbing tricky ascents or picking up speed downhill, you will generally be kept on course and in check.
In an effort to save as much weight as possible the bike comes equipped with a Ritchey Carbon Pro seat post, along with a Scott Road Pro SL saddle. This also fits into the bike’s comfortable take on road racing, while the Road Pilot Pro OS handlebar is an unfussy addition that plays its part appropriately.
The comfortable ride and stiff, light setup really help when you are attempting to get into a rhythm that you can sustain all day. This is particularly noticeable during climbs, because the seated position is particularly well suited to keeping you locked in the saddle rather than requiring that you take a stand in order to generate some power. The lengthened head tube does mean that the Scott CR1 Elite is a little more specialised than some of its all-rounder alternatives, but in the right hands, this will become a blessing rather than a curse.
In all, this model offers a suitable step up in terms of performance which justifies the increased price when compared with its CR1 siblings. It is not quite up there with the top of the range models, if only because of the components that have been selected in order to keep it as a distinct cycle. However, if it suits your budget and you are after something that will combine performance and comfort with a particular aptitude for climbing, the Scott CR1 will probably be worth giving the time of day.
Scott CR1 Specifications & Compare Prices
- Front Fork: Scott CR1 HMF NET, 1 1/8 ” Carbon steerer, Integrated Carbon Dropout
- Rear Shock: N/A
- Front Derailleur: SRAM Rival Black
- Rear Derailleur: SRAM Rival Black
- Gears: 20
- Chainring: SRAM Rival Black 50/34T
- Cassette: Shimano 105 570 11-28T
- Shifters: SRAM Rival Carbon, Double Tap 10 Speed
- Brakes: SRAM Rival Black
- Wheels: Syncros RP1.5, 18 Front / 24 Rear
- Tyres: Continental Ultra Race FOLD 700 × 23
Indeed. I decided to shim (yes I have custom workshop abilities) the lock ups on the front and rear to give both an extra mm or two. It ended up working beautifully and I cannot believe how this road bike simply eats up the miles. I’m having a difficult time getting back to my SS Evo for now, the Sram shifting is simply an amazing and effective system. Turns out I had my tyre pressure a bit too high 105 rear / 100 front. Changed to 90psi on the back and the front at 85 and the response on the cockpit steering made a huge difference. I should have known on the 28’s that an adjustment would be that beneficial. I saw a link to a Sram recommendation on tyre pressure for bike specs and rider info. It really helped me dial this in. If you don’t mind I’ll paste the link below. Anyhow, you all probably already know about it. I’m a bit of a green pea when it comes to road bike tech knowledge. Been an avid cyclist dang there all my life 52 now) mountain, hybrid, never thought about getting on the road bike click until a few years ago. Probably due to mostly the get up, I just thought It looked way too uncomfortable until I tried. Been to many of intense spin classes and then some. Thought of getting a Peloton but I just couldn’t see myself with others online, I have to have tires on the ground. After finding a group and some new folk to enjoy the company, it’s a perfect outlet to relieve the stress of work and personal life while getting the stamina and cardio necessary for my health needs. When work or family ask me about it, they are confused on how we can do 30 / 40 or even 50= mile rides. It just doesn’t compute for most of them.. but I know it’s my outlet. Beats the gym and that spin class any day. My 52 yr old muscles are back alive and I absolutely love the thought of my next outing every time! By by golf, no more back issues and it’s where my soul lives for exercising!
link: https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure
@Mike, congrats on the new ride, sound like you’re having fun! Regarding the tyres, 28mm are a good option but the limited clearance might be an issue in warmer weather if the size fluctuates. Might be safer to drop down to 25mm. From memory, I think the original tyres were 23mm.
Hey Mark and group. I also purchased one of these, almost new. It looked like it was hardly ridden as the original tyres still had the centre line. The CR1 Elite to be exact. When I got it home and cleaned er up, wow was I surprised at how it looked new. Kysrium flat spoke wheels true that look simply amazing! After a good treatment to the transmission (mostly dusty) it did not disappoint. I was able to get a set of Continental Comp III 28’s on it. I was surprised at how perfectly they fit, with only a few mm’s to spare. Had my first test out yesterday afternoon and it was a joy. Went for a route with a few more hills than my usual Sunday ride and I was impressed. Shifting on SRAM (rival) is new to me but the learning curve was near instantaneous, very quiet and precise. Just super impressed also on the foot to pedal power transfer also. I was worried it would seem soft but I was nicely surprised!
My only adjustment other than tyres was I added the “stretch super electrical tape (thicker and not sticky)” over the existing original wrap and that made a huge difference, seemed to give me a bit more grab on the bars and added confidence. The front end was quite responsive, more than my Super Six Evo disc, and thinking of finding a way to not have the bars move so slippery back n forth during higher speeds (25mph plus downhill and such). Feather lite and I love the look of the og style rim brakes, they performed excellent and I’m not missing the occasional disc rub during my rides like on the Cannondale.
This is my 3rd road bike, I also have a Jamis City Hybrid a DXT Sport with the Discs (cable) and it’s predictable and ideal for city riding with the wife since she doesn’t like the long 25+ mile hikes. I can say that for a nine year old bike, it’s quite amazing and I am so stoked to pick it up for only $620 private sale. Was wondering your thoughts on the tyres though. Yes they did fit and the 28’s are perfect for my 200lb frame on both my road bikes but the clearance is minimal and I couldn’t find anything anywhere online about super close clearances whether it’s some kind of compromise due to the limited space or not. Just curious on that. Mike, Napa / Solano County Ca area. Thanks for the post and keep it going, enjoy the ride my friends!
First of all, congratulations to you both, great effort. Mechanicals are unfortunately a ‘regular’ occurrence but don’t be put off by that, learn the basics yourself to save money, and be better equipped on the road or trail.
I’ve had my mountain bike for well over 20 years and it feels just as good as the day I bought it. My winter road bike isn’t quite as aged but it sports the 105 groupset you mentioned and there’s nothing ‘dated’ about that in my opinion. You did the right thing before your ride so I’d not be looking to change anything at this stage, if at all. Chains should be changed annually based on your mileage and if you can afford it, I’d suggest replacing the cassette too but other than that, and keeping it clean, lubed and loved, leave the rest!
Hi Mark, just read your review on the Scott CR1 Elite 10 gear which I found very interesting and accurate being the proud owner of one. I have just completed the coast2coast challenge with my daughter in 6 days covering just under 340 miles. This is the first time I’d really given my bike and me a proper workout and was quite pleased with the comfort and performance. Unfortunately for me my gear shift decided to break at the end of day one (Sunday) and left me temporarily in 10th gear! I managed to get it manually adjusted to the 5th gear for the bank holiday Monday and found a bike shop on the Tuesday who installed a Sram 500TT shifter. I have just placed an order for a Sram Rival gear lever which I will get my local bike specialist to replace. I guess I was just unlucky on the trip.
I would appreciate your thoughts and advice on a reoccurring theme during my trip. Other bike shops have commented on how good the Scott CR1 frame and the Mavic wheels are but have basically said that everything else is dated. That is, 11 gears, 105 system etc. etc. I had a full service completed a few weeks before the challenge which included new chain, cassette, chainring and more coming to around £300. Difficult question I know, but do you think I am throwing good money into something that has had its day? I’m not an everyday cyclist and probably do around 250 miles a month. I would just be interested to know your thoughts on upgrading bike, which basically as I understand it, starting from scratch or stick with what I’ve got based on mileage etc. I’ve watched a few youtube videos and it’s quite clear that upgrading an existing bike can be very expensive and, in some cases, it is more cost effective to trade in old and buy new. Thanks for your time. Regards Mark